• 1

  In a very large skillet with a tight-fitting lid, warm the olive oil over low heat and add ¼ cup water. Add the onions, cover the pan, and stir occasionally until onions are softened, about 10 minutes. Add the bay leaves, pepper flakes, and 2 ½ cups of the wine. Cover the pan and simmer gently, stirring occasionally, until the onions are very soft, about 15 minutes.

• 2

  While the onion/wine mixture is simmering, bring about 4 quarts of water to a boil and add the remaining wine and 1 tablespoon salt. Add the pasta and simmer for 5 to 6 minutes or half the recommended cooking time (see tip below). Drain in a colander, reserving ½ cup of the pasta water.

• 3

  Dump the drained pasta and reserved pasta water into the pan of simmering wine and onions and bring to a gentle simmer. Cover the pan and allow to simmer, tossing with tongs frequently, until the liquid thickens and the pasta is al dente and most of the wine is absorbed, 6 to 8 minutes. Quickly pull out and discard the bay leaves.

• 4

  Remove the pan from the heat and add the butter, grated cheese, ½ teaspoon salt, black pepper, and herbs. Toss to coat the pasta thoroughly until the butter pieces are melted. Serve immediately.

Notes

• !

  For the first cooking of the pasta in Step 2, allow about one-half of the total recommended cooking time. The pasta will finish cooking in the “sauce,” where it will absorb lots of flavor from the wine, and the wine/onion mixture will be enriched and thickened by the starch remaining in the pasta.